Exceptional early Véronique Branquinho trench coat in a dense 88% cotton / 12% polyurethane coated fabric, giving the garment a dry, slightly waxed surface. Comparable Branquinho trench examples from the period are documented in the late 1990s–early 2000s.
Highly engineered military-inspired construction with a double-breasted, heavily overlapping front, broad pointed lapels and a high standing collar with throat fastening. Shoulder epaulettes, tonal buttons and multiple rows of topstitching reinforce the military vocabulary.
The fastening system is particularly unusual, incorporating numerous metal hook-ended closures concealed between the overlapping layers. One distinctive double-sided fastening allows an interior layer to be secured from within, creating a secondary closure system beneath the visible front buttons.
The back is the defining feature: a large three-dimensional rear overlap, beneath a sharply pointed double-layered rear yoke. A wide suspended rear panel extends from the sides, incorporating D-rings, adjustable straps and a hanging metal buckle, creating an almost harness-like construction and giving significant volume away from the body.
The coat has developed an extensive black-to-smoky-charcoal patina, with uneven fading particularly visible across the cuffs, sleeves, shoulders, collar, straps and rear panels. Lighter abrasion along seams and edges contrasts against the deeper black of the central body, emphasising the garment’s complex construction.
Circa AW2001, with the rear engineering and belted/gathered outerwear particularly consistent with Branquinho’s work around this period.
